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Here’s what to know about each bike type, so you can find your perfect match. Adventure Road Bike
There’s nothing better and more exciting than buying a new bike—and now is the perfect time to do so. With advances in technology and designers creating bikes with every kind of cyclist in mind, bikes have become more functional, reliable, and even more fun to ride. That’s partly because the variety has bloomed from a few basic styles (e.g. road, mountain, city) to now include all manner of niches and categories-within-categories, as bike makers diversify their offerings to appeal to the many ways that people enjoy riding.
But that profusion of options presents you, the eager buyer, with a challenge: How do you know which type of bike is right for you and the riding you’ll do? Well, that’s what this guide is for whether you're an expert rider or you're looking for a beginner bike.
Lightweight, efficient bikes with drop handlebars and narrow tires, for recreational riding mostly (but not exclusively) on paved surfaces. Styles include aero, ultralight, endurance, touring, and all-road.
Rugged machines with flat handlebars and wide, knobby tires for riding narrow dirt trails. Styles include hardtail, full-suspension cross-country, full-suspension trail, and full-suspension enduro.
Drop-bar bikes with clearance for multiple tire sizes for a range of riding experiences on- and off-road. Styles include gravel, bikepacking, and cyclocross.
Almost any of the other categories covered here can be enhanced with electric assist. A small and lightweight electric motor adds to the rider's pedal power for an easier and faster ride.
Bikes designed for practical cycling while commuting or running errands, including tasks that involve carrying family members or cargo. Styles include commuter, fixie, folding, and cargo.
Everything from beach cruisers to flat-bar bikes for weekend spins on multi-use paths. Styles include hybrid, fitness, comfort, and cruiser.
These head-turning bikes feature 3.8-inch wide or wider tires for flotation and traction, often for use in sand, snow, or on the trail. Styles include mountain (hardtail and full suspension) and cruiser.
Road-style bikes built to optimize aerodynamics a with wing-shaped frame, wheel cross-sections, and aggressive rider positions.
Tandems are bicycles built for two (or more) riders, and thus are often built with reinforced frames and components to handle the extra weight. The rider in front is called the pilot; the rear is referred to as the stoker. Tandem bikes come in several styles, including road, mountain, and cruiser, but road is the most common.
Just because they often have small wheels doesn’t mean they’re only for kids. These bikes are found in styles for racing, freestyle, or riding wheelies. They feature one gear and are built tough to withstand jumps and crashes.
Get your little ones into the action with a great kid’s bike. There are all kinds of options, even dedicated road and full-suspension mountain bikes built for small riders. Higher quality means lighter weight and kid-friendly parts, so your child has more fun riding. And you can start them earlier than ever now that pedal-less “balance” bikes have largely replaced tricycles as a toddler’s first ride.
We’re not talking kid stuff here; these are adult three-wheelers intended for anyone who wants to haul lots of stuff, or who needs or prefers the stability of the third wheel. Styles include road, mountain, and utility in both upright and recumbent configurations. There are also adaptive (hand-cranked) versions. Some trikes have electric-assist.
In contrast to a traditional bicycle where the rider sits upright, recumbents put the rider in a reclined position that some people find more comfortable. Most recumbents are road style, but some can be used off-pavement.
These stripped-down machines are designed for special use in velodrome racing. They feature very stiff frames, narrow tires, a single gear that does not freewheel (if the bike is moving, the pedals are turning), and no brakes. You might also see riders using track bikes in cities for transportation due to their sleek styling, lightweight, and ease of maintenance.
Some people might call it a racing bike; others call it a 10-speed. (Hello, progress: Many now have 22 or more speeds!) Road bikes are designed for speed, with narrow tires for rolling fast and far on smoother surfaces.
With wing-shape frame tubes and wheels, these bikes reduce drag to a bare minimum. Intended for racing or time-trialing, they often feature more aggressive rider positions; the emphasis is speed over rider comfort.
Made for long climbs, these bikes strip weight by using the lightest materials, but may not be as good for all-around use.
The right pick for most riders, these models feature a more upright rider position for comfort, slightly wider tires and gearing ranges and, sometimes, vibration-absorbing technologies in the frame and/or fork.
Built for all-day comfort and carrying capacity, they also feature long wheelbases and stable steering make for confident handling, while accessory mounts for racks and bags let you gear up for long-distance, self-supported rides.
A bridge between pure road and gravel bikes, this style (sometimes called road-plus or pavement-plus) combines clearance for moderately bigger tires (up to around 38mm wide) with a more-traditional road bike geometry that features quicker steering and an aerodynamically efficient rider position.
If you’re staying on pavement, it’s hard to beat the fast-rolling efficiency of a good road bike. From racing to group rides to solo spins, a road bike can handle a wide range of recreational rides.
Quality road bikes with aluminum frames, 16-speed drivetrains and conventional rim brakes start around $800. Super high-end models go well north of $15,000, with exotic materials, 24-speed electronic drivetrains, hydraulic disc brakes, and ultra low weights.
These durable, rugged bikes are made for riding narrow dirt trails. They have wide, flat handlebars for control; two-inch or wider tires with knobby tread for traction; and wide-range drivetrains and hydraulic disc brakes for handling steep climbs and descents. Most modern mountain bikes have 29-inch wheels with the occasional model using 27.5-inch wheels (MX or Mullet bikes run a 29er in the front with a 27.5 in the rear); the older 26-inch is rapidly disappearing, but is still used for some kid’s bikes and dirt jump mountain bikes.
As the name suggests, these often have suspension forks on a rigid frame. They are typically the most affordable type, but there are also high-end versions for racing and heavy duty versions for trail riding.
Cross Country (AKA: XC) Full-Suspension
Features a shorter-travel (120mm or less) rear suspension designed to prioritize low bike weight and efficiency under power, especially on climbs.
Mid-travel (120-160mm) suspension that balances climbing efficiency and descending abilities. Tires get wider, with larger brake rotors for stopping power.
With 160mm or more of rear wheel travel, powerful brakes and aggressive tire treads, these bikes are intended for maximum control when descending, especially on steep, technical terrain or in lift access bike parks.
These are a sort of mashup between a traditional hardtail mountain bike and a BMX bike. They feature larger wheels (traditionally 26-inch, but a few dirt jumpers now have 27.5-inch wheels). Like BMX bikes, most have a single gear and rear brake only, but they can be fully rigid or come with front suspension.
As with dirt jump bikes, frames are built compact to keep the seat out of the way. So what’s different? These models feature full suspension (usually less than 100mm), multiple gears (often fewer than the 10 to 12 found on most modern mountain bikes), and front and rear brakes.
Mountain biking means a lot of things to a lot of people. Depending on the style, a mountain bike can be used for everything from unpaved roads to steep, goat-path singletrack. Generally, the more technical the trails, the more rear suspension you want. Smaller riders may benefit from bikes with the 27.5-inch wheel size.
A basic hardtail for light trail use can be as low as $500, while the top trail and enduro-style models cost $10,000 or more, with carbon fiber frames and wheelsets and sophisticated suspension systems.
With a classic drop handlebar, a gravel/adventure bike looks almost exactly like a traditional road bike. But look closer, and you’ll find differences like clearance for much larger, knobby tires for off-road use, additional mounts for accessories like bottle cages and frame bags, and geometry that’s designed for a more upright rider position for comfort and stable handling on unpaved surfaces. These bikes have disc brakes and wide-range gearing for steep climbs. Some incorporate front or rear suspension elements for rider comfort.
An all-around, all-surface bike made for a range of uses, from races to all-day adventures.
A stripped-down version of an adventure bike for short format racing. Tire clearance is similar, but the geometry features sharper, more aggressive handling, and there are often no additional accessory mounts beyond two bottle cages.
The extreme adventure version, bikepacking bikes have clearance for fat, 29x2-inch tires, lots of mounts for accessories and, sometimes, suspension-corrected geometry so you can outfit it with a suspension fork.
These go-anywhere, ride-anything machines are the most versatile bikes on the market today. They combine much of the fast-rolling efficiency of a road bike with treaded tires for traction off pavement. They can handle almost any kind of riding you want to do with the exception of road races. Some models have rack and fender eyelets, making them serviceable tourers and commuters.
Gravel/adventure bikes start around $1,000 for basic, aluminum-framed models with cable-activated disc brakes, and go up over $10,000 for carbon fiber versions that are often as light as good road bikes and have upgrades like carbon fiber wheels and electronic shifting.
The “e” stands for a small electric motor that provides an assist to the rider’s own pedaling. There are three classes: Class 1: pedal-assist to 20 mph; Class 2: pedal-assist or throttle-driven to 20 mph; Class 3: pedal-assist to 28 mph. Once mostly found on urban bikes, you can find styles now across almost all kinds of bikes.
As in the Urban category above; you’ll find all three classes; Class 3 is great for fast commutes.
Especially useful on long-tail and front-load bikes, the motor makes load-hauling easy.
Can be hardtail or full-suspension, usually Class 1. These are not always legal on local trails, so check with your local trail association before heading out.
Usually Class 1 or 3, made for spirited road rides alone or with friends.
The point of an e-bike is to deliver the same basic experience of cycling, with a little less effort. E-bikes can help people enjoy the same kind of road or mountain bike rides regardless of differences in age or fitness; give your commute a speedy boost with less sweat; or make the difference between using the car or the cargo bike for that grocery run. Basically, e-bikes allow more people more access to ride.
Hub-driven technology can be found on bikes down to $1,000. Newer “mid drive” systems are found on bikes starting around $2,000. A typical price range is $1,500-$6,000, and high-end full-suspension mountain bikes can go above $10,000.
In the recent past, many companies offered “women’s specific bikes.” These could be bikes with geometry and parts chosen specifically for what was understood to be anthropomorphic differences between men and women, or they might be “shrink it and pink it”—a small frame size in a “feminine” color.
But today there are far fewer bikes designated as women’s specific, largely because, according to brands, the body proportion studies that were the basis of women’s specific geometries are no longer considered accurate.
Today, the only full line brand that offers women’s specific bikes with unique geometries is Liv.
These bikes defy easy classification: They are essentially any bike made with utility, rather than recreation, in mind. They come in various, purpose-built styles. Whatever bike you pick, you get exercise, stuff gets done, and you always get free parking. You’ll find traditional “diamond” frame and step-through models in all styles except fixed gear (fixie) for anyone who wants an easier way to get on the bike.
Efficient and fast-rolling, this bike typically has flat handlebars for an upright position that lets you see well in urban environments. Multi-gear drivetrains handle hills, rim or disc brakes stop safely, and high-end versions come with accessories like fenders, racks and even lights pre-installed.
Stylish and slick, these are the café racers of urban bikes. They’re based on track racing bikes, with lightweight frames, only one gear, and a clean, stripped-down aesthetic, often with color-matched parts and accessories.
There are three styles: long-tail, mid-tail, and front-load (Dutch: bakfiets). Long-tail bikes feature a stretched-out wheelbase with built-in racks and pannier compatibility for large loads. Mid-tails attempt to pack close to the same carrying capacity in a shorter wheelbase (often by using smaller-diameter wheels), so that they’re more versatile for non-cargo use. Front-loaders have a spacious cargo bin ahead of the pilot and between the wheels. The low center of gravity and large capacity are ideal for heavy and bulky loads.
Designed for the tight spaces of urban environments, folding bikes feature frames that articulate via lockable hinges or couplings. Typically accompanied by smaller-diameter wheels, they feature fast, partial disassembly to make them far more compact. That’s ideal for commutes on crowded public transportation, carrying up stairways, or storage in smaller living and working spaces. But small is still powerful: Folders can feature impressive cargo capacity and versatility, and there are electric-assist versions for a boost to natural pedal power.
There’s no one “best” kind of urban bike; just the right kind of bike for your needs, which can range from commuting and errands, to taking kids to the park or trips to the home and garden store.
Fixies and commuters are typically the most affordable. They start around $400 for the most basic models; high-end, fully-accessorized commuters can run $2,000. Cargo bikes start around $1,500 for serviceable mid-tail designs, and go well past $5,000 for electric versions.
If it’s a bike built for fun—but not a road or mountain bike—it’s probably in this broad category that encompasses everything from flat-bar fitness bikes to beach cruisers. Some fitness bikes come in women’s versions with different touch points, and you’ll also find traditional diamond-frame and step-through versions in styles like hybrid, comfort, and cruiser.
Named because they share features of road and mountain bikes, these feature the upright rider position, broad-range gearing and flat handlebar of a mountain bike, with narrower, fast-rolling tires with light tread. Some have suspension forks as well.
These emphasize road bike-like efficiency without the aggressive position, with lightweight frames, performance parts, and narrow slick tires paired to flat handlebars for a more comfortable rider position.
These bikes are marked by wide, lightly-treaded tires, cushioned seats (and sometimes suspension) and a very upright rider position.
The classic swoopy-framed beach cruiser with fat tires, one to seven gears and wide, chopper-style handlebars.
As with urban, this category covers a broad range of use, and you’ll want to pick your style based on what you’ll do with it. Fitness bikes are made for working out; hybrids are great for rambles on paved or light dirt paths; comfort is perfect for a refreshing Saturday morning spin to the coffee shop.
Basic cruisers can go for as little as $200, while high-end flat-bar fitness bikes can easily run $2,000.
For decades, kids’ bikes were typically cheap, heavy, BMX-style models, but in the past 10 or so years, specialty bike makers have re-thought the approach, and the result is a major change in quality and variety of children’s bikes. The downside? Yes, you’ll pay more. But in return, you’ll get nicer bikes that are lighter, with parts that are appropriately sized for kids, and which hold their value—some manufacturers even offer an upgrade program with guaranteed buyback value.
There are various sub-types, but in general, look for light weight overall, smaller parts, and quality components. Weight matters because, proportionately, a bike is heavier to kids than adults. How tired would you get if you had to hustle a 60- to 70-pound bike up a hill? That’s what a 25-pound bike feels like to a 60-pound kiddo. Parts like brake levers, crankarms, and pedals should be appropriately shrunk to fit kids’ bodies. And watch for signs of good quality: name-brand tires and drivetrain parts, plus brakes with short-reach levers that operate with minimal hand force.
These no-pedal bikes have mostly replaced trikes and training wheels, and for good reason: Your tyke simply sits on the seat and scoots along just by pushing off with her feet. She’ll quickly learn balance and steering without having to also master pedals and brakes. They’re light, affordable, easy to use, and will get your child riding faster and with fewer spills than anything else.
A classic choice for a kid’s first conventional bike, they’re typically ruggedly built, feature just one gear, and stand up to the abuse that kids can dish out.
With wide handlebars, sturdy tires, multiple gears and two brakes, this style is offered in a wide range of wheel sizes for kids of all ages, and is the most versatile type. Kids can ride these bikes to school or on family trail rides on the weekend. Larger-wheel models for bigger kids can feature many of the same attributes as adult bikes, like hydraulic disc brakes and even full suspension, which makes them ably suited for longer rides on more demanding terrain.
A great choice for the young rider who wants to do everything from unpaved exploring to the occasional race or event. These bikes typically feature smaller-diameter wheels (often 24-inch) than adult bikes, as well as kid-sized seats, handlebars, and crankarms, and gearing that’s adapted for less-powerful riders. You’ll still find older-style cantilever rim brakes on some of these, but for more money you can get bikes with cable-activated or hydraulic discs. They’re a versatile choice that works for road rides, too.
If your child has decided that pavement is where the action’s at, there are also kid-specific road bikes. Like kids’ cyclocross/gravel bikes, these use 24-inch wheels and a lower gearing range that’s easier on long climbs. Crankarms are typically shorter, and brake levers may also be sized for smaller hands.
For kids, of course. They serve various purposes, and those will change as your child grows and decides what’s important. But overall, these are bikes that will help grow a love of cycling in your little one, whatever the style.
Costs vary widely depending on the bike. You can find balance bikes for toddlers for under $100, while more sport-specific models, like mountain bikes, with high-end parts and features can be $2,000. Rest assured you don’t need to spend that much, though: many quality kids’ bikes, even for bigger riders, are between $500 and $1,000. Quality bikes tend to offer better resale value; be sure to ask about shop or manufacturer-sponsored buyback programs to help your dollar go further.
Fat bikes feature ultra-wide tires—at least 3.8 to almost 5 inches wide—for better flotation and traction, especially in soft soils or packed snow.
The original style, these are very similar to normal hardtail mountain bikes. Many are fully rigid, with the only suspension coming from the oversize tires.
A more recent variant, this pairs beach cruiser looks with ultra-wide tires for a pillow-like ride.
Mountain fat bikes are great for getting out on days you might not otherwise, especially in winter. They’re ideal for hardpacked snow, as well as sand and loose soils. They offer confidence and control for getting over obstacles without losing traction. The beach cruiser variety? Those are just fun.
Beach cruiser-style bikes start around $500. Hardtail mountain bikes typically start around $1,400. High-end versions, with carbon fiber frames and rims to keep weight down, can go for $7,000.
A road-style bike that’s built for aerodynamic efficiency to help triathletes achieve their best performances. The central features of a triathlon bike are frame geometry and special handlebars that allow the rider to maintain an aerodynamic tuck while preserving stable handling; and aerodynamic frame and component design for reducing drag. Frames and wheels, especially, are designed with wing-style airfoil shapes for aerodynamic efficiency. At the high end, bikes are designed as complete, custom-integrated units; parts are not easily swapped. Disc brakes are becoming more common, but adoption here still lags behind other road styles. Tires are typically narrow (25mm or less). Some companies offer women’s-specific models, with different saddle and handlebars, shorter crankarms and, sometimes, different frame geometry.
Going fast on race day. Drafting behind other riders is not legal in most triathlons, so the bikes are optimized to reduce wind drag, and to go fast over the flat to rolling terrain found on most triathlon bike courses. They’re not as versatile as road bikes; the rider position and handling aren’t suited to long climbs or technical, twisty descents.
Basic triathlon bikes start around $2,000, with metal frames with less aerodynamic shaping, and more conventional wheels. Top-shelf models feature carbon frames with striking wing-shape tube profiles, carbon fiber wheels with deep aero rims, and advances like electronic shifting with multiple shifter points on different parts of the handlebar. These can run well over $10,000.
Simply, a bike made to carry two riders. To handle the extra weight and long wheelbase, the frames are built from oversized tubing, and often feature a second downtube that bisects the bike to add stiffness. Crucial parts like wheels and tires are typically built for strength and durability as well. Pay special attention to the brakes; you’ll want powerful versions for sure, safe stopping (discs are best). Some production manufacturers make tandem bikes, but they’re also popular items from custom framebuilders.
The most common type you’ll see. Tandems make great road bikes because the design places two riders closer together than they could be on singles, which creates more aerodynamic efficiency. They’re freight trains on the flats, and you’ll often see them driving the pace at the front of group rides and in organized events like fondos and centuries. The flip side is they’re less efficient on climbs, so road tandems typically feature low gearing designed to let both riders stay in the saddle and spin up grades.
This style takes the classic beach-cruiser look and stretches it out for two riders. Cruiser tandems typically feature multi-speed gearing, but you will find a few single-speed models. Again, mind the brakes here; the classic coaster brake found on most single cruiser bikes simply isn’t powerful enough to stop the weight of two riders. Instead, look for front and rear rim, disc, or hub roller (drum-style) brakes.
Yep, people ride tandems off-road, even on technical singletrack. You’ll find hardtail and a few full-suspension tandems, like Santana’s El Conquistador de Montañas. If you go with a hardtail, a suspension seatpost is a good idea for the rear/stoker rider, since they can’t see rocks and bumps as well. You’ll want sturdy wheels and tires, a suspension fork with oversize stanchions (36mm at least), and powerful disc brakes: look for four-piston calipers and at least 200mm-diameter rotors.
Tandems are popular because they allow riders of different abilities to work together and enjoy a ride. They’re particularly suited for riding with children, and riders with certain disabilities, like impaired vision. They require excellent communication between the riders. The pilot has to look for and anticipate changes in terrain and let the stoker know when to pedal, coast, and stand, as well as sudden turns that shift weight.
Simple tandem cruisers can be found for as little as $500, but may not feature appropriate brakes. Tandems are typically more expensive than their single-rider brethren, and prices for performance road and mountain models can easily surpass $6,000.
Short for “bicycle motocross” BMX bikes were originally created in the early 1970s for racing on motocross-style courses. As the sport exploded in popularity, freestyle bikes designed for riding on ramps and dirt jumps or doing tricks on streets and in skateparks emerged. BMX riding has a strong and established subculture.
The oldest style, and an Olympic discipline, these bikes are designed for racing on short-length courses that feature wide tracks with big double jumps, tabletops, berm turns, and features like whoops. They typically have 20-inch wheels, but you’ll also find 16-inch, 18-inch, and 24-inch varieties (the latter is called “cruiser” style, which is not to be confused with beach cruisers). Built from steel, aluminum, or carbon fiber, these compact-looking bikes have no suspension, only one gear and brake, and reinforced riser handlebars that offer a short cockpit and upright rider position, which offers essential maneuverability for the rider in jumps.
You’ll find these bikes at bike parks, skate parks, dirt jumps, and “street” riding around town. Designed for freestyle riding (they are usually easy to tell apart from race bikes: look for the fat steel pegs at the front and rear wheel axles, which are meant for skateboard-style grind moves), with heavy duty frames, wheels, and components meant to withstand jumps and crashes.
The newest bike type within the BMX category, wheelie bikes (also sometimes called big wheel BMX or Bike Life bikes) are essentially BMX bikes with larger sized (26-inch or 29-inch) wheels. These bikes have gained popularity in the past few years due, in no small part, to the Bike Life movement. Bike Life group rides in big cities can draw hundreds of riders riding wheelies and doing tricks on these bikes.
Jumping and racing. BMX race models are intended for head-to-head competitions. But all of these excel at catching air on heavily groomed jumps in specific settings—BMX race courses, bike park trails, and skate parks—where trail-builders sculpt jumps with smooth takeoff and landing zones or, in the case of skateparks, smooth swimming pool-like bowls and street-like features such as boxes and rails. Wheelie Bikes are for riding on the street, as the large wheels generally make them unsuitable for dirt jumps or skate parks.
This varies widely. BMX bikes are the most affordable (many kids’ bikes are BMX style) and quality models can be had for around $300 and up. Race bikes start around $400 and can exceed $1,500 for bikes used by experienced racers. Bike Life bikes start around $500, with the more popular models costing between $800 and $1,000.
For anyone who wants more hauling capacity, or more stability, a trike is a great option. These bikes feature a conventional bicycle front end paired to two, side-by-side wheels in the back (or the reverse, with two parallel wheels in front, sometimes called tadpole). You’ll find both upright and recumbent versions, as well as both conventional pedal-only and electric motor-assist drivetrains. Gearing range from single to multi-speed derailleur and/or internal hub. Brakes can be either conventional cable-activated rim or hydraulic disc systems.
People who have no or limited lower-body mobility can find models with hand-cranked drivetrains, while recumbent models help those with nerve, skeletal, or muscle issues that prevent them from riding an upright.
These burly machines (sometimes in quad-wheel format) are typically recumbent, and feature suspension and disc brakes just like their conventional two-wheeled cousins. Some have fat bike-style wheels and tires for more traction and comfort. Because of the wheel configuration, they won’t do most singletrack but are capable of even rugged trails that are wide enough.
These largely conventional trikes use the extra real estate between the two parallel wheels for a cargo basket. Trikes offer stability that bicycles can’t match, and sometimes have larger hauling capacity (both in terms of volume and weight). You’ll find pedal-only and e-assist versions.
Trikes have a wide range of uses; they can be pure utility bikes for errands and commuting or haul cargo in both personal and work settings (cargo trikes are popular on factory floors and as bicycle rickshaws in downtown areas). Or they can be recreational machines that help riders stay fit and active or enjoy rides with friends and family on the road, bike path, or trail.
Because of the broad range of use, styles, and technology (conventional or e-assist), the price range here is similarly wide. Adult trikes start as low as $300 for simple, single-gear designs that are pedal-only with conventional cable-activated rim brakes. E-assist cargo models and mountain bikes can run well past $4,000.
Most simply, any bicycle where the rider sits in a reclined, rather than upright, position. The benefits are wide-ranging. For anyone who finds conventional upright bicycle positions (or traditional bike seats) painful or impossible to use, a recumbent offers a vital alternative to enjoy riding. Recumbent positions can also be more aerodynamic, particularly if the bike features a fairing (many human-powered speed records are set on recumbents). And long-wheelbase versions have low centers of gravity, so they’re stable on descents. They are typically heavier than upright bikes, and they tend to be inefficient and slow climbers even for very fit riders. While they provide an excellent view for the rider, their lower height can make them a bit harder for drivers to spot in traffic. The two basic styles are long wheelbase and short wheelbase. Both are made for road riding, but some are capable of lighter off-road duty. There are also recumbent tandems.
Recumbents are a bit more specialized than uprights and no one is mass-producing in large numbers, so they start at a higher price range: around $1,200 for a reasonably equipped aluminum frame model with a wide-range drivetrain and rim brakes. Just like upright performance bikes, you can find carbon models with high-end components for upward of $4,000.
The purest distillation of a bicycle, track bikes are all business: one gear, no brakes, and made for racing. Track bikes are meant to be used on a velodrome—a closed, oval track with banked turns that is expressly made for bike racing. Track bikes feature a single gear that does not freewheel; the gear is used both to propel the bike and to slow it down (via back pressure), and there are no brakes. They roll on narrow tires inflated to very high pressure for low rolling resistance. These bikes are sometimes used on the road as urban bikes, where they’re called fixies and often outfitted with flat handlebars and, sometimes, a brake of some kind. But a true track bike isn’t even drilled to accept bolt-on brakes. Wheels can be anything from conventional metal hub-spoke-rim constructions to carbon-fiber multispoke and disc versions.
Much like conventional road bikes in form and geometry, these are made for longer mass-start events like a scratch or points race, where a rider has a slightly less aggressive position than sprint or pursuit events, and may feature round tubes or some aerodynamic elements like tube shaping on the frame or aero wheels. They use conventional drop handlebars, albeit with a more rounded shape to the top and a deeper drop than most road bars.
They look similar, but sprint bikes are typically sturdier and heavier, and have a more aggressive rider position. These bikes are overbuilt to resist the forces of powerful riders doing maximum sprint efforts; secondarily, that makes them a bit better at withstanding the violent crashes that sometimes happen in events like a match sprint or keirin. Wheels are typically rear disc and multi-spoke carbon front for stiffness and aerodynamics.
Bikes made for timed events, like the 1-kilometer time trial, and team and individual pursuits. They look very similar to time trial or triathlon bikes, with heavy emphasis on aerodynamic tube shapes and wheels. These have flat, cow horn-style handlebars with aero extensions for a ski racer-style tuck. Most riders will use front and rear disc wheels or a multispoke carbon front wheel.
While track-style bikes (fixies) have become popular as urban rides, the true purpose of a track bike is very narrow–riding and racing on velodromes.
Because there’s not much to them, track bikes can be quite affordable. For actual track racing, level up a bit from the wide array of inexpensive metal “fixies” (which are often just road-style frames with track parts) to something specifically designed for velodrome racing. Basic track models with metal frames and conventional wheels can be had for around $500, but sprint and pursuit models can easily cost $5,000, in part because they’re not widely mass-produced. The craziest are the models designed for and raced by national Olympic teams; because of UCI rules, any bike used in competition must be available to the public, but these are often priced so high that it’s almost unheard of for a sale to happen. Hope’s HB.T, raced by the British Olympic team, starts at £15,550 (about $19,500 at current exchange rates) for the frameset alone, while Felt’s TA FRD, raced exclusively by the U.S. Olympic team at the 2016 Olympics, is $26,000. At least that gets you the complete bike.
A gear editor for his entire career, Matt’s journey to becoming a leading cycling tech journalist started in 1995, and he’s been at it ever since; likely riding more cycling equipment than anyone on the planet along the way. Previous to his time with Bicycling, Matt worked in bike shops as a service manager, mechanic, and sales person. Based in Durango, Colorado, he enjoys riding and testing any and all kinds of bikes, so you’re just as likely to see him on a road bike dressed in Lycra at a Tuesday night worlds ride as you are to find him dressed in a full face helmet and pads riding a bike park on an enduro bike. He doesn’t race often, but he’s game for anything; having entered road races, criteriums, trials competitions, dual slalom, downhill races, enduros, stage races, short track, time trials, and gran fondos. Next up on his to-do list: a multi day bikepacking trip, and an e-bike race.
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